Red carpet ripped out from jewelry designers

February 05, 2007

By Beth Braverman

Hollywood, Calif.—George Clooney and Julia Roberts were not the only losers at the 65th Golden Globe Awards. Also among the disappointed were fashion houses, makeup artists, hotels and—of course—jewelry designers.

The Globes appeared a lot less golden this year, as organizers did away with the red carpet and the traditional black-tie trappings. The annual ceremony, which kicks off Hollywood's awards season, has served in the past as a harbinger of jewelry and fashion trends for the Academy Awards and the rest of the year.

"The Golden Globes give such exposure to jewelry designers," says Helena Krodel, associate director of media for the Jewelry Information Center. "A good picture of a celebrity wearing a designer's jewelry will appear not only in coverage of the event but also throughout the year in trend reports and in dos and don'ts lists.

Without the Globes, jewelry companies are
placing product at smaller events. Sarah Michelle Gellar
wore 18-karat yellow gold rose-cut diamond earrings
and bangles by Amrapali of Jaipur to a movie premiere on Jan. 15.

"Savvy to this significance, Platinum Guild International (PGI) has, for the past five years, hosted a suite to outfit celebrities with millions of dollars in borrowed jewels for the bash.

In early January, PGI decided to cancel the suite because many actors had said they would not cross picket lines to attend the Golden Globes. A few days later, NBC and the Hollywood Foreign Press Association announced plans to downsize the Golden Globes from a three-hour, glitz-filled TV event that draws more than a thousand celebrities and media moguls to a Golden Globe Awards Winners Special hosted by Billy Bush and Nancy O'Dell.

In the absence of the red carpet, celebrity presenters, audience members and the actual handing out of awards, Bush and O'Dell were reduced to delivering the names of the winners as if they were a couple of news anchors. Normally fantastic fodder for the juggernaut of celebrity media, this year's event received little coverage.

"From the [perspective of the] jewelry industry, it is really a shame," says Michael O'Connor, PGI's senior vice president of marketing communication and public relations. "We had 42 designers [who would have shown in the suite] who literally had the red carpet pulled out from under them. They have lost the consumer brand awareness and celebrity placement that they normally get."

Besides garnering press play for stars and for platinum, the PGI awards suite provides stylists and their famous clients access to lesser-known jewelry designers.The writers' strike began on Nov. 5 when scribes walked off the job after failing to arrive at an agreement with studios regarding, among other things, their right to digital distribution profits.

"Even the big houses rely so heavily on public relations and the red carpet at these events," Krodel says. "This is one of the only chances for the really big pieces to get exposure.

These sapphire and diamond earrings

in platinum by Oscar Heyman

exemplify the type of blockbuster-level

jewelry Hollywood stars might have

worn on the red carpet at the Golden Globes.

"The People's Choice Awards, typically less important for jewelry designers, also cancelled its red carpet and traditional format when it aired on Jan. 16. The Screen Actors Guild Awards proceeded as planned on Jan. 27, thanks to its union ties and included a red carpet. But it was barely a blip on the ratings radar, with just 6.1 million viewers compared with the nearly 40 million who watched last year's Academy Awards.

At press time, writers had not yet announced whether or not they would picket the more influential Academy Awards, set for Feb. 24, which could lead to a similar scaling down of the ceremony.

"We are keeping our fingers crossed, because the Golden Globes are important, but the monster is the Oscars," says Chris Aire, a jewelry designer and red-carpet regular. "If the Oscars still happen, I think we'll be OK."

At press time, writers had agreed not to picket the Grammy Awards, scheduled for Feb. 10.However, Aire and other designers have also begun looking at other opportunities for product placement to make up for the lost Globes red carpet. Aire has jewelry appearing in three upcoming movies and plans to bulk up his advertising this year.


These rose-cut diamond earrings by
Amrapali of Jaipur would likely
have made the red carpet at the Globes.

Bochic, the New York-based designer-jewelry firm, saw its star soar last year after Angelina Jolie wore its vintage-style necklace and earrings to the Golden Globes, and that alone seems to have prevented a case of red-carpet withdrawal this year.

"Red-carpet events are a fixture right through the year in Hollywood, and because we have the Bochic collection in our public relations showroom year-round, we are known to celebrities and their stylists as a source for red-carpet jewelry," says Ginnina D'Orazio of D'Orazio and Associates, which handles publicity for Bochic as well as for other red-carpet brands such as Le Vian and Hellmuth. "In addition, we provide jewelry for many editorial shoots with celebrities throughout the year, so in many ways, it's simply business as usual."




Globe trends that struck out

If the Golden Globes had aired, you would have seen these trends, experts say:

Shorter earrings: Shoulder dusters get brushed aside this year for shorter drop earrings and larger cluster-style earrings that lie on the lobe.

Brooches: Pins have popped back into fashion's forefront, especially flower- and starburst-themed brooches.

Colors: Large, smooth gemstones—particularly in pink, blue and green hues—accent colorful gowns that stars are choosing lately. Cocktail rings remain a red-carpet favorite.

Yellow gold: While platinum remains a hands-down favorite at Hollywood's most dressed-up events, risk-taking, fashion-forward celebrities have made the move to rich, yellow gold designs.
Bold pendants: Shorter earrings put the emphasis on the neck, where big, vintage-feeling medallions look just right this season.


Editor's note: This story first appeared in the February 2008 issue of National Jeweler.

The History of Valentine's Day

Every February, across the country, candy, flowers, and gifts are exchanged between loved ones, all in the name of St. Valentine. But who is this mysterious saint and why do we celebrate this holiday? The history of Valentine's Day -- and its patron saint -- is shrouded in mystery. But we do know that February has long been a month of romance. St. Valentine's Day, as we know it today, contains vestiges of both Christian and ancient Roman tradition. So, who was Saint Valentine and how did he become associated with this ancient rite? Today, the Catholic Church recognizes at least three different saints named Valentine or Valentinus, all of whom were martyred.

One legend contends that Valentine was a priest who served during the third century in Rome. When Emperor Claudius II decided that single men made better soldiers than those with wives and families, he outlawed marriage for young men -- his crop of potential soldiers. Valentine, realizing the injustice of the decree, defied Claudius and continued to perform marriages for young lovers in secret. When Valentine's actions were discovered, Claudius ordered that he be put to death.

Other stories suggest that Valentine may have been killed for attempting to help Christians escape harsh Roman prisons where they were often beaten and tortured.

According to one legend, Valentine actually sent the first 'valentine' greeting himself. While in prison, it is believed that Valentine fell in love with a young girl -- who may have been his jailor's daughter -- who visited him during his confinement. Before his death, it is alleged that he wrote her a letter, which he signed 'From your Valentine,' an expression that is still in use today. Although the truth behind the Valentine legends is murky, the stories certainly emphasize his appeal as a sympathetic, heroic, and, most importantly, romantic figure. It's no surprise that by the Middle Ages, Valentine was one of the most popular saints in England and France.

While some believe that Valentine's Day is celebrated in the middle of February to commemorate the anniversary of Valentine's death or burial -- which probably occurred around 270 A.D -- others claim that the Christian church may have decided to celebrate Valentine's feast day in the middle of February in an effort to 'christianize' celebrations of the pagan Lupercalia festival. In ancient Rome, February was the official beginning of spring and was considered a time for purification. Houses were ritually cleansed by sweeping them out and then sprinkling salt and a type of wheat called spelt throughout their interiors. Lupercalia, which began at the ides of February, February 15, was a fertility festival dedicated to Faunus, the Roman god of agriculture, as well as to the Roman founders Romulus and Remus.

To begin the festival, members of the Luperci, an order of Roman priests, would gather at the sacred cave where the infants Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome, were believed to have been cared for by a she-wolf or lupa. The priests would then sacrifice a goat, for fertility, and a dog, for purification.

The boys then sliced the goat's hide into strips, dipped them in the sacrificial blood and took to the streets, gently slapping both women and fields of crops with the goathide strips. Far from being fearful, Roman women welcomed being touched with the hides because it was believed the strips would make them more fertile in the coming year. Later in the day, according to legend, all the young women in the city would place their names in a big urn. The city's bachelors would then each choose a name out of the urn and become paired for the year with his chosen woman. These matches often ended in marriage. Pope Gelasius declared February 14 St. Valentine's Day around 498 A.D. The Roman 'lottery' system for romantic pairing was deemed un-Christian and outlawed. Later, during the Middle Ages, it was commonly believed in France and England that February 14 was the beginning of birds' mating season, which added to the idea that the middle of February -- Valentine's Day -- should be a day for romance. The oldest known valentine still in existence today was a poem written by Charles, Duke of Orleans to his wife while he was imprisoned in the Tower of London following his capture at the Battle of Agincourt. The greeting, which was written in 1415, is part of the manuscript collection of the British Library in London, England. Several years later, it is believed that King Henry V hired a writer named John Lydgate to compose a valentine note to Catherine of Valois.

In Great Britain, Valentine's Day began to be popularly celebrated around the seventeenth century. By the middle of the eighteenth century, it was common for friends and lovers in all social classes to exchange small tokens of affection or handwritten notes. By the end of the century, printed cards began to replace written letters due to improvements in printing technology. Ready-made cards were an easy way for people to express their emotions in a time when direct expression of one's feelings was discouraged. Cheaper postage rates also contributed to an increase in the popularity of sending Valentine's Day greetings. Americans probably began exchanging hand-made valentines in the early 1700s. In the 1840s, Esther A. Howland began to sell the first mass-produced valentines in America.

According to the Greeting Card Association, an estimated one billion valentine cards are sent each year, making Valentine's Day the second largest card-sending holiday of the year. (An estimated 2.6 billion cards are sent for Christmas.)

Approximately 85 percent of all valentines are purchased by women. In addition to the United States, Valentine's Day is celebrated in Canada, Mexico, the United Kingdom, France, and Australia.

Valentine greetings were popular as far back as the Middle Ages (written Valentine's didn't begin to appear until after 1400), and the oldest known Valentine card is on display at the British Museum. The first commercial Valentine's Day greeting cards produced in the U.S. were created in the 1840s by Esther A. Howland. Howland, known as the Mother of the Valentine, made elaborate creations with real lace, ribbons and colorful pictures known as "scrap".

Special thanks to American Greetings.